Monday, November 20, 2017

On will and whim....................





If one had the powers of Poseidon, to bend the waves to one's will and whim, one couldn't be a good surfer.  There'd be no occasion to flow freely, in heightened adaptive attunement to what is beyond one's control.   The state of grace is necessary for surfing.  Why not be content with it?

-Aaron James,  Surfing With Sartre:  An Aquatic Inquiry Into A Life Of Meaning

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