Tuesday, December 5, 2017


     Our relative powerlessness before the ocean and its waves is not just a fact of the human condition.  It is a fact we must firmly accept, even embrace, in order to surf.  An attitude of acceptance is constitutive, if you will, of the mentality needed for the very possibility of performing the surfing activity:  without that sensibility, you can't surf a wave.
     Surfing is less a matter of asserting one's will than of transcending it, by standing ready to revise one's best-laid plans, according to what the ocean is offering.  And unless one surfs from a sense of one's relative powerlessness, one simple can't attunedly adapt to each coming moment of wave.  One won't be ready to respond immediately, at the right times, in the right places, in the right ways, ...

-Aaron James,  Surfing With Sartre:  An Aquatic Inquiry Into A Life Of Meaning

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