Tuesday, December 26, 2017
Mix things up...........................
Seventh, mix it up. As the seasons change, switch up the surf breaks and equipment. In California, when the swells come from the South Pacific, from mid-spring through mid-fall, you'll probably what to surf the south-facing breaks, and then in winter, with chillier air and water temps, the north-facing breaks. Push yourself a little, so as to keep things interesting. And maybe, so as to constantly progress rather than stagnate, try different surfboard shapes. Each one helps you see the wave slightly differently, so as to take a different, new approach and develop your surfing in a new direction. Try playing a new instrument. Do a new kind of art or craft project. Read a new genre of books,
-Aaron James, Surfing With Sartre: An Aquatic Inquiry into a Life of Meaning