Sunday, August 27, 2017

Well, isn't it..............................


Nowadays, in our more leisurely style of capitalism, the workaday surfer can be found at surf breaks the world over, stoked in gushing exuberance about the better waves of the day, feeling lighter about the stresses of work, acting as if the whole meaning of human existence can be found in the simple act of riding a wave.

-Aaron James,  Surfing With Sartre:  An Aquatic Inquiry Into A Life Of Meaning

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