Just go with the flow...............

     Surfing has superb experiential flow qualities.  You often surf better if you think less and let the surfing come, maybe coaching yourself with "Okay, don't get bogged down in technicalities; just go with the flow."  When things are really coming together in a session or over a week, the flow experience comes on in full force.  You surf your best without trying, doing fluid, radical turns, which start feeling automatic, as though you are watching them just happen.  Time seems to slow.  You feel open, connected, empathetic, and yet effectual, in riding along with the physical liquid flow that is a breaking wave.  Those times of peak attunement are also fleeting.  No less important are the ordinary days, in ordinary waves, with all the mellow and harmonious feelings, the sheer fun and beauty of the deed, the pleasantness of being immersed in salty air, a wispy breeze, and glassy, gently shifting,  luminously reflecting seas.  "It's good just to get wet" is what surfers say.  You need it, often if not daily, to feel sane and stay stoked.

-Aaron James,  Surfing With Sartre:  An Aquatic Inquiry Into A Life Of Meaning