Swift adored London, with its endless variety and turbulent energy. In 1700 it was the largest city in Europe, with a population of six hundred thousand. That was three times as many people as in Shakespeare's day, and one-tenth of all the inhabitants of England. The London Shakespeare had known, less than a century, earlier was gone. In the Great Fire of 1666, four-fifths of the city center had been demolished, including the medieval St. Paul's Cathedral. Its stones, the diarist John Evelyn said, "flew like grenados, the melting lead running down the streets in a stream, and the very pavements glowing with fiery redness."
A year later, a poet captured the sense of astounding loss:
The city now is the once-city's tomb,
A skeleton of fleshless bones become.
Its venerable ruins have the name
Of what it was, but little else the same.
An immense rebuilding campaign was soon under way, and continued for decades. Sir Christopher Wren's new St. Paul's wasn't finished until 1710, thirty-five years after construction began. Wren and others proposed razing the tortuous old streets and alleys, replacing them with broad avenues on the continental model, but those plans were defeated by legal wrangling over property boundaries. In the end, new houses occupied pretty much the same spaces as the old. To the west of the burned zone, however, there were still empty fields, and development went forth energetically. All the time that Swift was in London, new buildings were going up and elegant squares taking shape.
-Leo Damrosch, Jonathan Swift: His Life and His World
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| London 1700ish |